K is for… Kouign-amann
What is it?
This richly buttery, laminated pastry isn’t a world away from croissants, but it’s denser, sweeter and has a caramelised crust. It is also commonly referred to as the fattiest pastry in the world.
Where’s it from?
It hails from Brittany, its name coming from the Breton words for ‘cake’ (kouign) and ‘butter’ (amann). Legend has it that it was first created in the mid-19th century in the Breton town of Douarnenez, where inventive baker Yves-René Scordia came up with it when he was faced with an surfeit of butter. The result was a mouthwatering revelation, combining flour sugar, and copious amounts of Brittany’s famously rich salted butter.
How do you say it?
Queen-ah-mahn
Where can I buy it?
Though not as ubiquitous as the croissant, self-respecting French pâtissiers around the world will offer kouign-amann, although obviously, for 100% authenticity you should really book your next trip to Brittany without further ado.
Can I make it at home?
Of course you can – although it is a laborious process, as is always the way with lamination. It begins with yeasted dough layered repeatedly with butter and sugar, much like a croissant. However, the critical difference lies in its treatment: sugar is incorporated into the lamination, not simply sprinkled on top. During baking, the sugar melts, creating a golden, lacquered crust that is as crisp as it is sweet. The centre, meanwhile, remains tender, with buttery layers adding a hint of salt to the deep, caramelised sweetness. It can be made in larger portions and sliced, or baked in individual portions. Some inventive bakers add modern riffs such as chocolate, fruit or spices.
Where can I find out more?
The Association du Véritable Kouign-amann de Douarnenez uphold the traditions of this much-loved Breton treat. If you pop into the tourist office at Douarnenez, you can pick up a list of Association-approved makers from the reception desk.
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Lead photo credit : Kouign-amann, a Breton speciality, Photo: shutterstock
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