At La Table du Castellet, in the village of Le Castellet in the Var, head chef Fabien Ferré is celebrating after being awarded the highest culinary compliment France has to offer: three Michelin stars.
Since taking over from his mentor Christophe Bacquié, Ferré set has run the restaurant singlehandedly, and now, at just 35, he is the youngest French chef to hold three stars, and becomes the first chef to go from unstarred to three stars. Provence, with its seafood and fresh vegetables, take pride of place on his menu, with creative and perfectly executed dishes, enhanced with concentrated sauces, jus and emulsions which are both intense and powerful, such as the velvety roe sauce with strawberry vinegar that underscores the delicious langoustine with rhubarb. The desserts, devised by pastry chef François Luciano, vie with one another in freshness and exquisiteness, and always prioritise seasonal ingredients. There is also a spectacular cheese cellar selection, which, according to Michelin’s inspectors, is worth the trip alone.
Michelin says of Ferré: “He has an artist’s sensitivity to Mediterranean produce, calling to mind Matisse, who was captivated by the light of Provence.”
In the elegant and opulent setting of the hotel La Réserve, in Paris’ 8th arrondissement, Le Gabriel – La Réserve Paris is run by head chef Jérôme Banctel, who comes from Rennes and has worked at the most prestigious Parisian establishments. His is a very personal cuisine, according to Michelin. Fluctuating between the flavours of his native Brittany and those gleaned during his many travels, dishes are sharp, accurate and often imbibed with wanderlust. At dinner, whether guests choose the Virée menu – a gastronomic homage to the chef’s home region – or the Périple menu – where far-flung cuisines, particularly Turkish and Asian, rub shoulders –Banctel reveals his cosmopolitan alchemic talents as he juggles with acidity, iodine, herbs and spices, such as the Binchōtan-grilled lobster with almond praline and verbena peach. The eatery invites gourmets to return to explore the many facets of this multi-cultural cuisine which offers an affordable 4-course lunch menu. During the hunting season, a delectable menu awaits fans of duck, pigeon and hare à la Royale.
With these two new additions, the Michelin Guide 2024 includes a total of 30 three-star establishments in France.
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