Michelin inspectors have once again travelled to all corners of l’Hexagone to uncover fresh gastronomic talent, with the 2024 Guide listing 52 one-star restaurants. A sign of the exponential gastronomic expansion in France’s towns and countryside, 23 are new additions which have only been open since 2023, and many are to be found in small villages off the beaten track.
One-stars in the capital
In Paris, 12 new restaurants received a star, bringing the capital’s one-star total to 95 establishments and reconfirming its position as France’s leading gastronomic destination. Among the notable newcomers was Espadon, the new restaurant at the Ritz run by chef Eugénie Béziat. In this legendary hotel, where Auguste Escoffier perfected his rules of French cuisine, Béziat “skilfully blends reminiscences of her African childhood with Mediterranean influences acquired over her culinary career. The result is both surprising and convincing, thanks to dishes that sensitively combine smoky, tangy and roasted notes”.
Not far away at Onor, chef Thierry Marx “a deep respect for nature, individuals, produce and producers, but also a love of culinary innovation in the company of physical chemist Raphaël Haumont”. And on the opposite bank of the Seine at Hémicycle, run by Italian couple Flavio Lucarini and Aurora Storari, the cooking “is certainly Gallic, but personal and subtly Italian”.
Japanese flavours and traditions are proudly represented at Sushi Yoshinaga and Chakaiseiki Akiyoshi. At the former, the sushi counter experience is the epitome of sophistication, excellence and nuance, while in the latter, the distinctive cha-kaiseki tradition is honoured.
Outside Paris
Among the newly starred establishments run by renowned chefs across France, such as Calice in Béziers, Le Champ des Lunes in Lauris and Le Feuillée – Le Couvent des Minimes in Mane – the one-star roster also reflects a new and highly talented generation. Fully aligned with the identity of their owners, these independent eateries are often lifelong projects. Rooted in their regions and connected to a thriving local ecosystem, they become distinctive and special places, as well as ambassadors for their regions. After meeting in the kitchens of Mirazur, Florencia Montes and Lorenzo Ragni decided to open their own restaurant Onice, in Nice, which centres on Mediterranean produce enhanced with Argentine and Italian nuances.
In Saint-Omer, in the Pas-de-Calais, Camille Delcroix lovingly prepares dishes in the kitchens of Bacôve, which celebrate the local region, while respecting the changing seasons as closely as possible. The driving force is in evidence too at AinTimiste, a restaurant belonging to chef Jérôme Busset in Poncin, a small medieval village just outside Bugey and Revermont, and Auberge du 12ème Siècle in Saché, an eatery which already had a Bib Gourmand and where chef Kevin Gardien honours the very best Loire Valley and Touraine ingredients.
In the small Dordogne village of Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère, New Zealand chef Nick Honeyman, his German wife Sina and their international team, interpret the Perigord terroir with flair in a modern and uninhibited manner at the Petit Léon. At Chamarlenc in Puy-en-Velay, head chef Yoan Delorme and his partner Célia Baudelier who helms the dining room, have just taken the helm. They offer top-flight gastronomic experiences at very affordable prices, with set menus varying between €30 for lunch and €60 for dinner (for an eight-course menu).
The Michelin inspectors have also highlighted wonderful stories of entrepreneurial flair. At Ar Men Du in Névez, in Finistère, Jérôme Gourmelen, was until recently the sous-chef and pastry chef; then he took over and his brief spell in charge has already netted him a Michelin star. In Lorient, after learning the ropes alongside the region’s top names, Julien Corderoch bought the restaurant where he learned his trade in 2018. Now named Louise, after his grandmother, he concocts inspiring cuisine, rooted in his native Brittany and brimful of family references. In Hauteluce, a small Beaufort village, Benoit Goulard (who runs the kitchen singlehandedly) and Hélène Fleury (who manages the dining room alone) took over a former auberge in 2018 and created Mont Blanc Restaurant & Goûter. Loyal to many local producers, they offer a set menu as well as a delectable snack time menu from 4pm. Finally, in Villeneuve-le-Comte, in Seine-et-Marne, Nicolas Tissier has just taken over the family-run establishment – La Vieille Auberge – and offers a modern surprise menu, focusing on fine produce.
In total, the Michelin Guide lists 534 one-star restaurants across France.
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