L’APPART
225 Liberty St., New York, 10281, United States
Rating: One Michelin star
What the Michelin inspectors said…
Secreted within the sprawling food hall of Le District, L’Appart is not so much a dining room as a crown jewel. Designed to resemble a Parisian apartment—hence its name—a meal here feels like attending a dinner party, albeit one with potentially 28 guests. You will be handed a drink as soon as you enter and are thereafter introduced to affable chef, Nicolas Abello. Comprised of everything that its surrounding boulangerie, fromagerie, poissonnerie and boucherie can offer, it’s clear that this kitchen is intent on pushing the barriers of classic French cuisine. The staff are genuinely warm and quite keen to please.
From then on, things settle down into a more recognisable format. The set menu kicks off with artistic little canapés that warm up your taste buds. Imagine lobster tartare with dashi gelée or a parmesan- and Chantilly-filled round of pâte à choux. Then it’s on to the line-up of dishes, made using all manner of modern technique, like the panko-crusted scallop with beurre blanc; or glazed sweetbreads with shiitake mushrooms and garlic confit. These flavours may be unapologetically rich but are always on point—not unlike the mini praline soufflé matched with praline ice cream.
We want to try…
Roasted heritage chicken breast, celery truffle remoulade, frisée salad and chestnuts served with a chicken lime jus ($42).
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