Nestled in the heart of Paris, at 20 Boulevard des Italiens, where the busy streets of the Grands Boulevards district meet the calm haven of the Palais-Royal gardens, stands an architectural jewel. The opulent 19th-century building with its ornate façade has long captivated visitors to the capital, offering a glimpse into the city’s rich past. 

It was here in 1839 that architect and entrepreneur Victor Lemaire built Le Restaurant de la Cité on the site of a former hôtel particulier. It was the epitome of high society elegance and its opulent interiors shone with luxurious gilded decor, mirrors and chandeliers. Richly upholstered furniture and plush carpets were complemented by intricate wood panelling and neoclassical frescoes. Lavish red velvet drapes framed the tall windows and intricate marble fireplaces exuded luxury. It quickly became known as La Maison Dorée (The Guilded House). The main dining room, with its soaring ceilings, evoked the grandeur of a royal court, while adjoining rooms, such as the lavish salon and intimate smoking lounge, offered spaces for socialising, dining and entertainment. 

The 1970s building planned to replace the Maison Dorée COPYRIGHT BP Paribas
The 1970s building planned to replace the Maison Dorée COPYRIGHT BP Paribas

Over the years, the Maison Dorée played host to some of the most influential figures in French history. It was a favourite haunt of the Bonapartes, with Emperor Napoleon III and his wife, Eugénie, often entertaining guests within its gilded walls. It also became a hub for the city’s literary and artistic elite, with writer such as Émile Zola, Edmond de Goncourt and Gustave Flaubert regularly gathering there. 

In the 19th century opera composer Gioachino Rossini was a regular visitor and it is said that chef Casimir Moisson created tournedos Rossini – a piece of beef tenderloin pan-fried in butter, served on a crouton and topped with foie gras – for him. 

By the turn of the century, the fashionable set had gravitated towards the Opéra Garnier district and in 1902, with declining customer numbers, the restaurant closed its doors. In 1932, the building was closed altogether. After the Second World War it was used by an insurance company as a storage facility and in the 1970s, with plans afoot to create a financial district in Grands Boulevards, the Banque Nationale de Paris obtained the building alongside others in the area, with plans to demolish and rebuild in the modernist style. 

La Maison Dorée in about 1900 NO COPYRIGHT IT IS public domain
La Maison Dorée in about 1900 NO COPYRIGHT IT IS public domain

But a public backlash and press campaign ensued and, eventually, BNP found a way to preserve the façades on Boulevard des Italiens, Rue Laffitte and Rue Taitbout while building hi-tech new buildings behind. On its website the bank says: “… the renovation and construction of the entire surface area of the former Italian District cost 82,426,600 francs in 1976. Maintaining the façade of the Maison Dorée only cost an additional 10 million francs.” 

Worth every centime, too, as although visitors today can no longer dine amidst the gilding and chandeliers, they can still gaze upon the glorious façade and imagine the building’s storied past. 


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