Long dismissed as Absinthe’s poor relation, liqueur de sapin (fir tree liqueur) is having a moment. We sample three of France’s finest. But which one prevailed?

OUR VERDICT

EDMOND BRIOTTET LIQUEUR DE SAPIN

Forget wine: come autumn, Burgundy is all about heart-warming liqueurs (liberally splashed in kir). And there’s none finer than Briottet’s arboreal remontant. Like gulping in an entire forest with each sip! €35.50

LES FILS D’ÉMILE PERNOTGRANDE LIQUEUR DE SAPINS

Green Fairy aficionados’ back-up of choice post-Absinthe ban, this gently aromatic spirit distilled in fir-studded Haut-Doubs is deliciously rounded. The perfect foil to its potent cousin. €24.90

THÉO PREISS LIQUEUR SAPIN 24°

A pure taste of childhood, this moreish number from Alsace is reminiscent of those old-school pine-sap bonbons papies used to carry in their pockets. Sure to hit the sweet spot! €18.55

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