Alsace: A Festive Feast for the Senses

Fairy lights twinkle and delicious aromas fill the air – from tarte flambée to bredele, Amy McPherson explains why Christmas tastes better in Alsace

Every year around mid-November, the fairy-tale towns of Alsace-distinguished by their colourful, half-timbered houses and ancient cobbled streets are transformed into a Christmas wonderland. The atmosphere is magical: sparkling lights enchanting decorations and the cheerful chatter of families browsing market stalls. But most of all, it’s the aromas from the food stands – the irresistible scents of mulled wine, spices and warm treats – that draw me in.

I adore eating at the Christmas markets – it’s perhaps the only time French locals sanction eating on the go! With Alsace’s traditions shaped by Germanic influences, the market foods feel subtly different here. From savoury staples to sweet delights and regional takes on worldly dishes, the festive fare in Alsace truly makes one feel like a child in a candy shop.

TARTE FLAMBÉE

“Tarte flambée is not strictly a Christmas market food,” says Marie Schwab of Alsace Tourism, “Although there is certainly something special about eating a slice as street food during Christmas.” Also known locally as flammekueche, it originated among German-speaking farmers in Alsace and neighbouring Baden, who used leftover dough to test their wood-fired ovens once the bread was baked. The film-thin dough, spread with crème fraiche, onions and bacon, would cook in a matter of minutes in intense heat. Its restaurant debut did not come until the late 1960s, as demand for it rose alongside the increasing popularity of pizza.

Simple and wholesome, it is perfect for eating with your hands, served folded to avoid the need for a knife and fork. At Christmas markets in Strasbourg or Colmar, you may also encounter vegetarian variation topped with spinach, asparagus or mushrooms, best enjoyed with a local Alsace beer or a crisp white wine.

THE GINGERBREAD PALACE IN GERTWILLER

The smell most people associate with Christmas has to be the warm aromas of cinnamon, cloves, ginger and honey. Gingerbread-or pain d’épices-is ubiquitous in the festive season, notably in Gertwiller, which is considered Alsace’s capital of pain d’épices. Fortwenger, founded in 1768 by Charles Fortwenger, has been making gingerbread for more than 250 years. Its Palais du Pain d’Épices, which opened in 2009, offers an immersive exhibition dedicated to gingerbread history and production techniques. Visitors can smell the baking honey and spice aromas even before entering, and once inside, they can explore workshops, sample various flavours and decorate their own gingerbread creations.

DAMPFNÜDEL IN HAGUENAU

Don’t underestimate the humble dampfnüdel, a treat you will not find elsewhere in France. This steamed, fluffy dumpling is the Alsatian version of a German Christmas snack and is particularly loved by locals from the northern part of the region, right by the German border. For the best dampfnüdel, visit Haguenau, home to beautifully curated nativity scenes around Place de Neubourg and Église Saint-Georges. Here, you’ll find dampfnüdel dusted with cinnamon sugar and served with warm apple sauce or fruit syrup – or even with a side of soup and vegetables.

MICHELIN-STARRED SOUP

A bowl of hot soup on a cold winter’s day is one of life’s great pleasures, made even better when you know the purchase of said soup is going towards a good cause.

In Strasbourg, the Soupe Étoilée is an annual charity event organised by the collective Humanis, featuring soups crafted by local Michelin-starred chefs. Held at a chalet in Place Kléber, its proceeds support social integration projects. First launched in 2013 it brings together four top chefs each year and is a highlight of the Christmas market season in Strasbourg

RAISE A GLASS IN OBERNAI

Mulled wine or Glühwein- needs little introduction at Christmas. In Obernai, around Place Beffroi, artisans serve Glühwein made in the local traditional style using Alsace white wine. Obernai also has one of the most beautiful Christmas markets in Alsace-be sure to raise a glass and say ‘S’geit! (cheers! in the Alsatian dialect).

BREDELE FESTIVE BISCUITS

No Alsace Christmas is complete without bredele, the small buttery biscuits baked in myriad shapes and flavours. As well as the rich, buttery, plain variety, look out for ones flavoured with anise or chocolate and hazelnuts too. Often made in moulds, bredele are baked to golden perfection and packaged in festive tins, making them a popular gift and snack throughout the holidays.

TRAVEL INFO

Alsace bordens Germany and Switzerland; the nearest airport is EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg. The regional capital, Strasbourg, is less than two hours by TCV from Paris. For more information and planning, visit www.visit.alsace.

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