Morteau sausage stars in its own podcast

Published: June 8, 2025 by Gill Harris 50

France has no shortage of cherished regional delicacies, but few embody the connection between land, tradition and craftsmanship as completely as the saucisse de Morteau. This deeply smoked sausage from Franche-Comté has long been a pillar of local gastronomy and now, thanks to a new podcast and a prestigious annual competition, the full story behind its making is coming into sharper focus.

The podcast, called La saucisse de Morteau fait son podcast!, offers a fascinating deep dive into the world of this iconic product. Through the voices of seasoned producers, master curers and expert chefs, listeners are invited into the smoky, aromatic realm of sausage-making in the heart of eastern France. The episodes explore the key stages of production – from the composition of the meat blend to the delicate art of smoking in traditional tuyé chimneys – highlighting the sensory and cultural heritage that defines this Protected Geographical Indication (IGP) product.

Among the highlights is a behind-the-scenes look at the Concours de la Meilleure Saucisse de Morteau, a twice-yearly tasting event held in spring and autumn, that selects the finest examples of this regional speciality. Held since 2012, the competition assesses saucisses from the region’s 29 certified producers on their colour, texture, aroma and flavour.

Recent gold medallists were Salaisons Chapuis for their Label Rouge-certified sausage. The Silver Medal was awarded to Morteau Saucisse, while Jean-Louis Amiotte, another Label Rouge producer, took Bronze. Jury member Jean-Christophe Bouheret, a former salaisonnier, explained that the key to a truly exceptional Morteau lies in its balance of smoky aroma, supple texture and a rustic yet refined flavour profile.

What also distinguishes the saucisse de Morteau IGP is its roots in the local way of life. It is made from a mix of lean and firm pork fat, roughly chopped and mixed, then stuffed into natural pork casings and sealed at one end with a wooden peg and the other with string. The sausage acquires its signature deep golden-amber colour and distinctive smoky aroma from slow smoking with conifer wood, traditionally sourced from Franche-Comté’s vast forests of spruce and fir.

The region’s topography, with its rolling valleys and cool mountain air, has shaped both its food and its customs. Pig farming here developed hand-in-hand with the area’s famed cheese production – notably Comté, Morbier and Mont d’Or – whose by-product, whey, provided ideal feed for livestock. The forested terrain also nurtured the emergence of the tuyé, a combination chimney and smokehouse where sausages and other meats could be preserved during the long winters. These practices, born of necessity, evolved into gastronomic tradition.

Cooking Morteau sausage, too, is treated with reverence. Former Michelin-starred chef Jean-Michel Tannières shares his best techniques on the podcast, emphasising the importance of gentle simmering to maintain the sausage’s integrity and bring out its full flavour. He recommends pairing it with cabbage, leeks, or potatoes – simple, earthy ingredients that enhance its natural richness.

Today, the Morteau sausage industry supports a robust local economy, with 29 certified producers, 159 pig farmers, 17 slaughter and processing facilities and a full ecosystem of animal feed manufacturers and forestry suppliers. In 2024, some 5,044 tonnes of Morteau sausage were produced, equating to over 16.8m sausages scoffed – that’s roughly 32 every minute.

Whether enjoyed in a rustic casserole, sliced alongside steamed vegetables, or savoured on its own, the saucisse de Morteau is one of France’s irresistible regional delicacies.

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