The 2023 Michelin Guide reveals four new restaurants with two stars. In Aumont-Aubrac, at the heart of Aubrac, Cyril Attrazic is awarded two stars for his eponymous restaurant. As part of the family-run hotel-restaurant founded by the chef’s grandmother, this atypical, authentic establishment – which also holds a Michelin green star – elevates the essence of the Lozère terroir and territory to the highest gourmet level.
“’The Aubrac beef in its ecosystem’ – beef garnished with four condiments prepared using the plants that form the basis of the animal’s natural diet – is accompanied by the traditional aligot, perfectly illustrating the chef’s sustainable philosophy, creative flair, and generous spirit,” says Michelin.
In Busnes, in Pas-de-Calais, Christophe Dufossé only joined the Château de Beaulieu 18 months ago, but he is already being honoured with two Michelin stars. At the heart of this charming property, which sprawls within a wooded park, the chef – who defines himself as a ‘peasant cook’ – offers surf-and-turf cuisine in a tribute to the terroirs of the Nord and the produce of the vegetable garden that he continues to develop. Each dish is delicately prepared, revealing remarkable sauce-making skills. The establishment’s commitment to more sustainable gastronomy is also highlighted by a Michelin green star.
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In Saint-Rémy, the cuisine orchestrated by Cédric Burtin for L’Amaryllis focuses on local produce, taking a truly contemporary view of the chef’s native Burgundy. “Like each expertly and deliciously revisited Burgundian hors-d’oeuvre, each dish is sincere and respectful of the terroir while keeping pace with the times,” says Michelin. “Here, too, the sauces, jus and vinaigrettes are perfectly executed, from the great French classics to creations with subtle exotic touches, such as the remarkable cumin-and-voatsiperifery-pepper sauce.”
Rounding out the selection is L’Auberge de Montmin in Talloires-Montmin, Haute-Savoie. Perched 3,763 feet up on Col de la Forclaz, Chef Florian Favario and his spouse Sandrine welcome guests to a convivial, secluded setting. Local products and garden produce are magnificently handled and garnished with a profusion of herbs and wild plants. “Just four years after opening the restaurant, the chef marks this return to his native village with a brilliantly accomplished menu, clearly finding fulfilment in the concoction of fun, high-impact creations, as demonstrated by the ‘marrow candle’ accompanied by a pot-au-feu and a revisited onion soup,” says Michelin. The restaurant also has a Michelin green star.
In addition to these four newly recognised establishments, the 2023 Michelin Guide France lists 75 two-star restaurants. Meanwhile, 39 restaurants are newly rewarded with one star. The Île-de-France is the leader of the regions, with the most newly-recognised restaurants this year at seven: Anona (Paris 17th arrondissement), run by Thibaut Spiwack; Villa9Trois (Montreuil), overseen by the Breton Camille Saint-M’Leux; the eponymous restaurant of Malory Gabsi (Paris 17th arrondissement); Omar Dhiab (Paris 1st arrondissement); Ōrtensia (Paris 16th arrondissement); Maison Ruggieri (8th arrondissement); and Astrance in the 16th arrondissement.
Nouvelle-Aquitaine and the Pays de la Loire each saw five new establishments awarded one star; in Occitanie and Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, the Guide’s inspectors were won over by four additional establishments; Hauts-de-France, Centre-Val de Loire, Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur and Grand Est each saw three new restaurants awarded a star; and in Brittany, two new restaurants were highlighted. In total, the Michelin Guide lists 526 one-star restaurants in France.
