What are they?
For some they are utterly gross; for many, they are a heavenly delicacy. Yes, escargots are, of course, snails. “What, those little old slugs in shells that slime around the garden? Revolting!” we hear you cry. Relax: while all escargots are snails, but not all snails are escargots. Escargots are specific species – commonly Helix Pomatia (aka the Burgundy snail) and Helix Aspersa (aka petit-gris) – that are safe to eat and have a particularly appealing flavour and texture. So don’t go harvesting any old snail you find in your garden, whatever you do.
Who on earth came up with the idea of eating snails?
It’s our old pals, the Romans. They considered them a delicacy and kept them in special enclosures called choclearia where they fattened them on wine and meal to enhance the flavour. Fast forward to medieval Europe and peasants ate them as a cheap and readily available source of protein. It was during the Renaissance that they finally grew in popularity and chefs began zhuzhing them up with the aforementioned butter, garlic and herbs. And by the time we reach the 19th century, escargots had firmly won their place in the culinary repertoire of France as a symbol of sophistication.
How are they served?
More often than not, you’ll have escargots à la Bourguignonne, snails in a sauce of butter, garlic and parsley. But look out also for escargots à la Provençale, prepared with tomatoes, garlic and herbs, and escargots à la Bordelaise, cooked with pancetta, shallots and white wine.
How do you say it?
Ehskahgo.
Where can I eat them?
Outside of France, any French restaurant will likely have escargots on the menu, at least from time to time. And in France, restaurants across the land will serve up this beloved delicacy, those in Burgundy being especially good. If you’re in Paris, don’t miss the irresistible charms of L’Escargot Montorgueil – it’s a veritable institution and is famed for its signature escargots de Bourgogne.
Can I make it at home?
Your best bet is to find a snail farmer near you (yes, they exist). They commonly sell pre-cooked vacuum-packed snails so all you have to do is warm them through and crack open the wine for an evening of tasty sophistication à la française.
Where can I find out more?
There are several brotherhoods in France celebrating the local variety of escargots and working to promote and protect them. Check out La Confrérie de l’Escargot de Roussillon, which organises various snail-related events and shares recipes.
Feeling less queasy about it all now?
Great. Why not try snail caviar? Snail eggs have grown in popularity over the past decade or so and are now considered a delicacy. Unlike fish caviar, these little white pearls aren’t salty but have an earthy, herbaceous flavour with a slight nuttiness. Look out for it on the menu next time you’re in a fancy restaurant!
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